A Brief History of Jean Schlumberger Jewelry
As one of the most talented jewelry designers of the twentieth century, Jean Schlumberger had a style that was all his own. Inspired by nature, he took inspiration from botanicals in gardens, including flowers, foliage, and fruits. Animals, birds, and creatures from the sea were other motifs. Flowing silhouettes were found in the textiles and fabrics he loved. “I try to make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.”
On the opposite end of the spectrum, geometric shapes also made their way into his designs, with a contemporary effect.
Regardless of the finished design, old-world jewelry techniques were the focus. Reaching back in time, he revitalized the art of enamel work. Popular in the 19th century, the complex technique of enameling involves heating and firing many layers of glass. Schlumberger took it a step further, by placing pure gold in between each layer. Works shimmer with inimitable color.
Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Enamel Croisillon Bracelet from eBay
Jean Schlumberger first introduced enamel into Tiffany & Co., in 1962. Today the shops still carry the Croisillion Bracelet, a bangle available in light or dark plum, azure blue, or white. The X design in gold, encircles the enamel, with golden bars between each. These are pure statement pieces.
The Rope Collection
Tiffany and Co. Schlumberger Rope Ring from LuxGoldMine on Etsy
Smaller more delicate rings in gold and platinum, still feature the rope look, but drop the X work. Instead, the Rope Two-row Ring features a circular band of diamonds running completely around the center with the ropes on either side.
Rope Six-Row Earrings are a chunky gold design that wrap around the ear. Each contain a large platinum X in the center, filled with diamonds. V-Rope Ear Clips crafted from six ropes of gold are folded in half. Each fans out in the opposite direction, appearing to take flight, with a sparkling of twenty diamonds combined.
The Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Rope Engagement Ring is a stunner. The textured rope band, splits, and curves around the finger. A brilliant diamond solitaire sits high in the center, on a hidden bezel of platinum and prongs, with a golden rope woven around it.
Tiffany & Co. by Jean Schlumberger Blue Enamel Cufflinks from eBay
Pins feature floral motifs, often with large leaves. Underwater creatures feature open oyster shells revealing a pearl and starfish. Seahorse King Brooch by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., features a gold and platinum seahorse festooned by green tsavorite. The eyes are rubies and there are sprinkles of diamonds throughout the design.
Egg pendants feature tiny Faberge type eggs made of from multi affordable stones such as turquoise, pink opal, or tiger eye.